Journal

Travelling to Jingdezhen encompasses a whole lot of considerations, many of which you will learn along the way but there are other things to consider before you travel.

Photography Do’s and Don’ts

Many shops, markets and other general outlets allow you to photograph artworks.  Look around first though as there may well be signs prohibiting photography.  You may well find these in galleries and exhibitions, festivals and expos, airports, tourist areas and specialty shops.  When you visit markets it’s almost expected that you’ll take photographs.  Do the right thing though and ask for permission from the artist first, just to be sure.  Some will get pretty annoyed with you if you don’t ask first, even though a no-photography sign is not displayed.  If you are showing off any of your own artwork also expect that it will be photographed.  I’m not sure what the copyright laws are in Jingdezhen, let alone China, but courtesy never goes astray.

Jingdezhen Ceramic Fair 2015 (© Deanna Roberts 2015)

Also, as a tourist and foreigner in Jingdezhen, chances are that you will also be photographed by the locals.  Foreigners are seen as quite a novelty so you may be photographed without even knowing it.  Keep a lookout if this bothers you.  Also avoid photographing anything military.  You may well be asked to leave the area or to show your camera to the authorities.   Avoid visiting the Helicopter Factory unless you’re accompanied by a local or guide or someone with the appropriate authority and security to move through that area .  It has high security and tourists are not welcome in that area.  The best option is to simply stay away.

Dining out

Jingdezhen ‘Food Street’ (© Deanna Roberts 2015)

Street food is pretty good if it’s fresh.  Be careful with food that’s been sitting in the open for a while or is not packaged.  I’ve purchased freshly cooked cakes, dumplings and pancakes and also bagged sweet potato chips and tea from street vendors without a problem.  Of course that doesn’t mean that you won’t have some sort of reaction.  Just be careful.  There’s always the supermarket of course and loads of restaurants and they’re usually pretty good.  Some are super fancy and very clean and some are just average and some in-between.  Shop around and ask for recommendations.  Again, I haven’t had any issues but I’ve been in some very classy places and some, well, let’s put it this way…. I would definitely not go back there again.  There are lots of cafes and take-away food outlets, fruit and veg shops, supermarkets and street food outlets.  Just know what to ask for.  Jingdezhen cooks love to add chilli, rather liberally, to almost everything – be careful – it’s hot!  Really hot!  Learn how to ask for chilli or other ingredients to be excluded from dishes if that’s what you prefer and ask for it up front, even at your artist residency kitchen.

Public Toilets

Be prepared for ‘squat’ toilets and not flushing your loo paper – or in fact there being any available – take some hygienic toilet wipes or tissues with you.  Many public toilets have bins for disposal of toilet paper and other hygiene products within the cubicle itself and the bins are not always enclosed so be prepared for unpleasant odours.  In saying that, there are some public toilets that are monitored and cleaned constantly and some where western toilets are also available, depending on what city you’re in.

Getting around

When hailing a cab have the addresses of where you’re staying written in Chinese and in English – use something like an online translator before you go (standard Chinese is best) or get someone there to write it down for you in Chinese.  Jingdezhen has their own dialect but the locals can usually understand the standard Chinese characters that Google or other app spits out.  Buses can also easily get you around town.  Again, know where you want to go, how to get there and what it’s likely to cost – have your money ready to give to the driver on embarking.  Buses are cheap and cabs are too.  Cab drivers do not seem to be afraid of the traffic at all and will weave in and out in order to get to your destination as quickly as possible.

Jingdezhen city 2015 (© Deanna Roberts 2015)

Chances are a motorbike ‘taxi’ will pull up beside you and offer you a lift.  Be wary.  I’ve known people to utilise this as a service without a problem however it pays to be on your guard.  Familiarise yourself with the Chinese words for stop, slow down, turn right or left etc and ask your artist residency for a list of common phrases in order to get yourself around.  If you’re really not confident, organise with your residency, hotel or hostel to hire a driver.  Rates are very reasonable and you can book them for a few hours while you go shopping, visiting or enjoying other outings.

Jingdezhen supermarket 2015 (© Deanna Roberts 2015)

There is so much more to think about when travelling to Jingdezhen.  Tune in to the next blog post for more information and hints and tips.  If you have any questions or comments, please make a note below and let me know.

Deanna 🙂

Here are a few more things to think about when travelling to China’s porcelain capital, Jingdezhen.  Read on for more Jingdezhen travel tips – what to consider before you travel.

Medications & Vitamin Supplements

Keep in mind that you may be asked when you leave your country of origin to declare any medications and/or vitamin supplements.  You may also be asked when you arrive in one of China’s main cities, eg Beijing or Shanghai, however I haven’t been asked to date, but that of course doesn’t mean you won’t be in the future.  Check China’s customs and security information before arrival.

When you’re in Jingdezhen and you fall ill… well… when it comes to the hospital… I’ve been told ‘you don’t want to go there’.  I wasn’t sure exactly what that meant but looking at it from the outside… well…. mmm…. you may want to return home instead, if it’s bad enough.  In saying that though, I have met a guy who did end up Jingdezhen’s hospital on one occasion and said it was fine, so again, check out what’s what before you get admitted – if you have to be that is.

Fengre Ganmao Keli – Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

If you catch a cold or suffer from any flu-like symptoms, there are pharmacies around, but take someone with you who can speak the language.  They’ll sell you tablets by the sheet or by the box, or this ghastly-tasting powder  (just add water) concoction (as pictured above) that tastes absolutely disgusting, but does the job.  Yes… I can recommend it!  Ugh… memories of ick.

Personal cosmetics & toiletries

If you’ve got special cosmetics or toiletries that you use, either therapeutic or otherwise, then take them with you.  My favourite items are Grace Cosmetics – an Australian brand of aloe vera based cosmetics and therapeutic skin care (I loved it so much I have been using their products now for 14 years and became a supplier).  Trying to find anything remotely close to that is almost impossible.  Buying makeup, sunscreen, moisturiser, contact lens liquid etc in Jingdezhen is not an easy task, again, without translation.  If you’re after sanitary pads for example, shopping for those in Jingdezhen can be an adventure in itself.  Believe me… you can get caught out thinking you’re purchasing a standard panty liner and en up with something I could fly home on.  Take your own and if you run out… take someone with you who speaks ‘pad’.

BYO toiletries to Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Food and beverages

Taking food into China hasn’t been an issue for me to date.  However, like anything when it comes to other countries’ customs and security regulations, things can change.  Check it out first.  If all ok, I’d recommend taking your own breakfast cereal (if that’s what you’re in to).  I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned this in an earlier blog but I was introduced to a rice cereal on my first visit to Jingdezhen and I mixed it with some puffed wheat bars which added a bit of crunch – rather nice actually.  It wasn’t until I was back home after my second visit that I’d been eating baby food all along.  My Australian friend mentioned it so casually as if to say, ‘Yeah…. didn’t you know?’.  Yeah, right.  Thanks a lot.   Hilarious.

BYO breakfast cereal to Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

BYO breads (eg pumpernickel or other European delights) – Jingdezhen’s bakeries are now well stocked with western-style breads but they go very quickly and what’s left is usually very sweet.  Bring any special tea or coffee you like.  Tea in China is very easy to come by, of course, but if you’re into chai latte for example, then BYO.  If you ask for it you’ll be given some very strange looks indeed.  With that in mind – there’s tea and there’s tea.  Tea in China, especially in Jingdezhen, can be very expensive.  Expect to pay about AUD$200 for about a kilo at minimum.  It’s all hand picked, rolled, dried etc and is exceptional when it comes to taste, but it is on the expensive side.  Choose what’s right for you.  Of course there’s always the supermarket brands of tea which are also quite suitable to the palate.  It’s all about choice… and taste.

BYO speciality tea or purchase it in Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Luggage

Less is best.  You’ll find so much stuff you want to bring back.   Take a larger suitcase with a smaller one inside if you wish.  On standard economy flights luggage is usually limited to about 30kg from an Australian city to Shanghai but flying from Shanghai to Jingdezhen limits you to about 20 kg.  If you’ve stocked up on supplies in Jingdezhen you could ship your extra items to Shanghai and collect them at your hotel on your return trip perhaps or take up the direct shipping option from Jingdezhen to your home town.

Check your luggage allowances before you leave (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Shipping

Shipping can be expensive – even then there are options such as couriers, crates and post and all sorts of conditions associated with each.  Check out each option and compare costs and decide whether you need to take out insurance on your posted items also.  The staff at your artist’s residency should also be able to assist you with this.  Postage for example – be careful when posting things from Jingdezhen not to include anything wrapped in newspaper or CD’s or anything that Chinese authority may consider contain ‘code’ or propaganda.  Chances are that the post office staff will open your parcel anyway before sending it.  If they find anything they think is remotely suspicious they’ll remove it and forbid you to mail it.  Postage times and costs vary depending on where you’re sending it to, weight and how long you want it to take to get there.  The quicker the delivery, the more you pay.  Couriers are far more expensive but you can expect your parcels to arrive in a week to 10 days.

Shipping is an option but can be expensive (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Next article we’ll talk more about travel do’s and don’ts and what to be aware of.  Stay tuned for that one!

This blog post has come about due to queries from one of my blog’s readers who is travelling to Jingdezhen this year. It occured to me that I hadn’t written much about visas, what to take etc so here it is, the first few Jingdezhen travel tips to make life a little easier for you when preparing to leave for China.

Get your invitation letter from a residency or artist

The Pottery Workshop – Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Apply to one of the artist residencies in Jingdezhen – for example Zhenrutang or The Pottery Workshop.  Once they accept your application they’ll send you a formal invitation letter which you will need to include with your visa application (assuming you’re travelling from a country for which China requires a visa).

Zhenrutang residency, near Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Visa application

It’s really important that you fill this out correctly and honestly.  You can apply as a student or artist for example and from experience, applying as an artist hasn’t made a difference to the success of the visa application.

You can apply online and post your passport to the Chinese Embassy in your city if you are comfortable with that idea, otherwise I’d recommend making an appointment online as once you arrive at the Embassy, they’ll issue you a ticket so that your number is called as a priority.  Twice I’ve applied this way and haven’t had to stay at the Embassy for any longer than about 15 – 20 mins.

Make sure you have all the relevant paperwork with you.  Go through the checklist in the visa application to be 100% sure.

One last thing to include is a current photo of yourself (passport size image).  Again, make sure it’s done properly and not a poor reproduction or a home printer job.  If the Embassy staff are not satisfied with the smallest detail your application may well be rejected and you will have to reapply.

Getting organised before you go

Your visa application process (in Melbourne anyway) will take about a week so you can return to the Embassy and collect your passport with the visa in tact.  Again, your visit there shouldn’t take too long – they’re certainly very efficient with their processing.

Be sure to check your passport is current.  When you arrive at your Jingdezhen residency you’ll also be asked to check in with the local police – they’ll look through your passport and any forms the residency will ask you to complete too.  The residency staff will usually arrange this for you or at least direct you to where you need to go.

Ask relevant questions of the residency where you’re staying, for example:

• What are beds like?  Will I need to bring my own self-inflating mattress?  (some beds are extremely firm and can take some adjusting to!)
• How far is your room from the bathroom?  Some residencies are communal living with shared bathrooms and shared kitchens.  If you’re one to get up during the night and you’re used to an ensuite or having breakfast on your own, you may need to think differently in this case.
• What meals are provided?  You might well receive 2 or 3 meals a day, 6 or 7 days a week.  So there will be times where you will either need or want to fend for yourself and dine out or stock up your own little pantry.  You may like your own cereal, teas and allergy-free foods.  Shopping at the supermarkets can be challenging if you don’t have anyone with you to translate or read any product labels to you.  Put it this way… I bought what I thought was a cereal and actually enjoyed eating it for a couple of months – turned out it was baby food!  There are bakeries you can walk to or access easily by cab, depending on where you’re staying, some of which you need to get to early if you want to get your hands on fresh ‘western-style’ baguettes and rolls.

• What tools does the residency provide?  Usually there’s a limited supply of basic tools available for you to use, like sponges, turning tools, plaster slabs and batts.  If you have favourite tools that you use at home or in your business, take them with you.  There are plenty of tool shops in Jingdezhen and you can certainly add to your tool collection!  Trimming tools sold at the shops for example are either the usual stainless steel, cheaper tools, or the expensive ‘Kemper’ style tools, that retail for about AUD$25 each – not cheap.  Check what’s available and what you need to bring without weighing yourself down.

Indian printing blocks (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

There are other travel tips to include in my next blog – look out for that one.

It’s still very early days and I’m told on this particular day that I will learn ‘How to find your way around The Sculpture Factory’. This is all so incredibly new and foreign. I’m still not sure which end of the road is which and if I should turn right at one end to go to the bank or the other end to go to the bakery… decisions, decisions!  Some interesting tid bits though… According to Jingdezhen’s Pottery Workshop’s website, “Established in 1956, the Jingdezhen Sculpture Factory is located in an eastern suburb, 6 kilometers away from downtown Jingdezhen. The factory is about 110 thousand square meters and 1300 workers, including a national ceramic art master, 2 Jiangxi Provincial ceramic art master, 36 high standard craftsmen, and over 400 other craftsmen. It is considered to have one of the largest groupings of master craftsman of any sculpture factory.’

Rubber glove moulds & studios behind The Pottery Workshop (© Deanna Roberts 2017)

Well, I’ve already found my studio space.  Whew!  Am a little more settled there at least.  It’s got a lovely community feel to it, sinks at each end and great views from the studio space over the mountains on one side and views to other studios and work spaces in the adjacent buildings.  There are a few tools available for use if necessary but this is such a haven for pottery tools I don’t think it’s going to be necessary to hijack any other tools from here.  There are basic porcelain clays available for use such as Super White and Middle White, plenty of boards and batts, drying mats and loads of information posted to the noticeboard.

Studio space – The Pottery Workshop – Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2017)

Feeling very comfortable I make my way downstairs to the communal cafe near the Mufei Gallery and inside on the Cafe wall, the amazing butterfly dress catches my eye immediately.  It’s a dress adorned with tiny little butterflies hand-made by various artists to Caroline Cheng’s (Director of the Pottery Workshop) one design and stitched by hand on to a heavy canvas.  Effective to say the least!

One of the things that first hits you on your visit to Jingdezhen, is overwhelm.  As a ceramic artist, one can get overwhelmed easily on Pinterest just for starters, but when you visit a city totally dedicated to the ceramics industry, with a university totally for ceramics and almost every retail outlet dedicated to the industry in some shape or form and streets with only galleries – one after another – it simply blows your mind.

Around every corner is something representative of ceramics – you can’t help but stumble across it.  Its definitely worth exploring.  There’s so much to see here.  Simply resist the temptation to stay within the studio space… learn, explore, chat to the locals and discover a whole lot more than you expected.

Gallery lane within Pottery Workshop grounds – Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Ceramics within roadside wall – beside Pottery Workshop (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

LinLin’s porcelan painting (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

So… you’re not sure where to find a great gallery in Jingdezhen?  Look no further than the newer campus of Jingdezhen Ceramic Institute.

It’s early in the trip and Diana has insisted I visit this gallery and  I’m intrigued as I want to learn everything about this place!  There’s a mystery and a surprise around every corner, that’s for sure.  I’m introduced to LinLin and her gallery ‘Find China’ (yep… I originally thought it was an error too and that it should be ‘Fine China’, but alas…. no…. I was completely wrong).  LinLin’s work in this gallery is simply exquisite; her painting simply leaves my work for … well…. just leaves it really.  LinLin’s an absolute darling and shows us around pointing out her new work and introduces us to some of the staff, seated at a long table and who are focusing completely on their intricate designs and disciplined art work.

Artist at work in Find China Gallery – Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

There’s a lot of work to be done.  Only 30o+ pots to go… (ok, I’m guessing, but there’s a hell of a lot to do!).  Every now and then they pop their heads up to say hello and to marvel at what the foreigners are looking at, but they’re also quick to return to their work.  It’s definitely all about dedication and discipline here.Pottery awaiting decoration – Find China Gallery, Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

LinLin insists on taking us out to some of the studios and the huge student gallery that highlights some of the work in progress and the amazing skills and craftsmanship of students.  I’m learning that Jingdezhen not only has its own ceramic institute, but the time it takes for a student to study there is anything from 4 – 6 years.  To actually comprehend that such a city exists, that has it’s own university, just for ceramics, is still mind-blowing.  So many windows to look in – there’s a lot of construction still happening.

Inspecting new galleries – New JCI campus, Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

We meet one of the sculpture artists (I wish I could remember his name…), have a quick chat about his beautiful work and the hours and hours it’s taken to produce it, the beautiful glazes he’s used and how dedicated he is.  I’ve haven’t yet gathered how many students are situated at this campus but things are really quiet and there aren’t a lot of people around.  Perhaps it’s all in its infancy, but I reckon I’d be pretty lonely working here, however, the amount of work that’s going on here could indicate anything to the contrary.

Jingdezhen Ceramic Institute – Chen Luo Ming – resident artist (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

We then venture up to the 3rd floor of the main building to look at the studios that some of the students rent out.  It’s a never-ending group of corridors with a smorgasbord of studios and work on display or at least in progress.  I’m still gob-smacked.  Finding studio space like this back home would be ridiculous.  It just is.  It simply wouldn’t happen.  We peer in some of the studios and marvel at the designs in development.  Some studios are absolutely spotlessly clean, some set up like a gallery and shop itself and others, well, they’re a little messier but definitely evident of a dedicated artist!

Artists’ studios (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Outside many of the studios along the window sills there is plenty of work underway, drying, waiting for additional pieces to be added, or waiting for a critique.  It’s interesting to see so many talented artists who are way up there with the best.  Their work and patience is a lot to be admired and I am in awe of the level of expertise that lies before me.

Artists’ work in progress (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Even looking out the window there are things that make you go ‘Ooohh….’ and wonder what lies behind those doors…. probably storage 🙂  Otherwise, it could hold something of incredible historical value, remnants of a previous time, someone’s furniture, an old kiln, some plum wine perhaps, or maybe someone’s fine work drying slowly.  Anyway, we’re venturing out that way and will wander past on our way to the gallery across the road… now this is a sight to see.

What’s behind those doors? (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

The gallery seems to go on forever.  There is work lined up wall to wall, column to column, aisle to aisle… I want to photograph everything.  This is one thing that is (I’m told later on…) typical of newcomers to Jingdezhen.  You come with a plan and all good intentions but then you see the work on offer and you fall into this state of overwhelm.  Finding your niche is hard enough but when you see every artist’s work here, well, it just makes it that much harder.  I want to buy it all.  I want to make something just like it, but of course, there’s no point.  That’s their work, their ideas, their craftsmanship.  Copying anything is just a waste of time.  I need to do what I love to do and do it well.  Either way, I’m still overwhelmed.  So many ideas, so little time.  Where do I start?

Travel hint no. 21: Take an extra SD card for your DSLR, or set up online storage, like Dropbox or Google Drive for the thousands of photos you’re likely to take with your phone.

Incredible student artistry (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Not sure where to find pottery tools in Jingdezhen?  Heading back from the glaze shops in the main drag of Jingdezhen, I see the glaze shops are also among some pottery tool shops.  Oh my.  Does this ever end?  Tools, tools and more tools.  Can it be?  Am I dreaming?  This just doesn’t happen back home.  Back there, which seems so far away right now, there’s one shop for glazes, clays, raw materials, equipment and tools.  Having separate shops for separate items makes a lot of sense here in the porcelain capital of China of course but back home it would simply be overkill.  There’s a small supply of tools at the Pottery Workshop which I may make use of but I’m also glad I brought some of my own along.  Might pay to explore the surrounding streets too.  Trimming tools here are either super expensive and hand made, similar to the Kemper tools or super cheap, stainless steel and blunt.  Mine are middle-of-the-road but need constant sharpening.  The endless supply of tools here is simply enormous, but it does pay to shop around.

Travel hint no. 17 – Ask for help and shop around for tools.  There are tools, and well… there are tools.

Pottery Workshop Jingdezhen – back street (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

There’s simply not the demand here, in Melbourne, for this extensive supply of ceramic resources.  As it is the ceramics industry hardly has a foot in the door.  Government funding for the arts has been cut heavily.  TAFE colleges have closed their ceramic departments or reducing the amount of courses available to the public.  It’s such a shame.  I have to say that when I first started studying ceramics in the early nineties, I never imagined I’d be in Jingdezhen 20+ years later.  I didn’t even know it existed.  Yet, here I am.

Travel hint no. 18 – Take someone with you when you’re shopping; someone who can speak and read the language.

Shopping here can be a challenge in more ways than one.  Before you even venture into the shops though, learn to navigate the traffic.  If you come from a land like mine where we drive on the left side of the road and right-hand drive, then Jingdezhen traffic makes no sense at all.  It’s the opposite.  Not only that but traffic lights are for reference only and seat belts are virtually non-existent if you take a cab anywhere.  Motor bikes are everywhere but helmets are not.  They’re extremely rare.  They might as well wear a porcelain bowl on their head.  It’s just so unsafe.  The motorbikes are also electric and very quiet so they’ll sneak up on you.  Wave your arms abut wildly while walking on the footpath but don’t be surprised if you collect someone coming up behind you who doesn’t toot first.  Even then, that can scare the crap out of you but then again, listen to the road traffic and all you hear are horns tooting.  It’s not so much about impatience but more about warning the car in front of you that you’re going to overtake and use a lane that doesn’t exist except in the oncoming traffic.  Oh wait… there’s a family on a bike and there’s one child strapped in to a baby deck chair across the footrest of the bike, and another in between the adults, totally trusting and oblivious to the potential dangers.  What the?

Jingdezhen traffic and glaze shops (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Crossing the road for the first time?  OMG.  I want my Mum!  I think I’m going to die.  I can’t see the oncoming traffic for the bus in the way so I follow everyone else that I assume knows what they’re doing.  All of a sudden I make instant friends with a man holding a shovel, as you do, on the back o a motorbike with his wife upfront.  The endless tooting sounds momentarily disappear as all I can hear is “Ooh oo oo oo ooh!”.  I think this must be Chinese for ‘Get the hell out of the way you stupid, bloody, blind, clueless foreign woman!’, or certainly something along those lines.  With a shovel imprint on my leg and the sounds of abuse ringing in my ears I waddle to the other side of the road, relieved but also panicky.  I know, somehow, that I’ve got to attempt a road crossing again if I want to make it back to my brick bed and doona tonight.  Roads are definitely a challenge.

Travel hint no. 19 – Cross the road with someone who’s prepared to walk beside and guide you.

Travel hint no. 20 – Strap in.  It’s an interesting ride!

Not sure what the Sculpture Factory in Jingdezhen is all about?  Well… it’s not a factory as such… but was once many moons ago.  Today, the Sculpture Factory is a like a little village all on its own, scattered with masters, craftsman and artisans in just about every nook and cranny.

Today is a new day in Jingdezhen and the Sculpture Factory and I can’t wait to get started.  There’s a small clay shop just up the road and I find some beautiful coffee-coloured stoneware/porcelain clays and a rather gritty/groggy pepper-speckled porcelain to play with.  I’m in love.  One of the young volunteers from the Pottery Workshop has accompanied me and she can thankfully can translate because I’m stuffed if I know how I’m going to be able to carry back 40 kg of clay.  I’m told not to worry; we’ll call the Carry Man.  She calls, he comes.  That’ll be 20¥ thanks.

Jingdezhen and the Sculpture Factory

It’s not until months later that I learn how the Sculpture Factory came about.  What I’ve learned today though is that there appears to be a ‘Man’ here in Jingdezhen for everything.  Now… I mean that in the nicest, possible, polite way of course.  🙂  If you want a mould made you see the Mould-Maker Man.  If you want beautiful flowers, you see the Flower Man.  If you want your work glazed professionally (and I mean professionally! – ie by the masters that glaze work day in, day out, and have been for 20+ years), then you see the Glaze Man.  For firing, go see the Kiln Man…. and so it goes on.  A man for everything indeed… I must tell my husband. 😉

The Flower (and insect) Master at the Sculpture Factory (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

The glaze shops are next on the agenda.  OMG.  I’m a kid in a lolly shop.  What a selection!  It’s crazy.  I’m handling all the samples… one in every colour of the rainbow no doubt.  I love the look of a dry-red speckled glaze, oh but wait… there’s a gorgeous green one as well, and oh, a beautiful soft blue, and a white, and a gorgeous black… But then I’m told to wait because there’s so much more to see.  What?  More glazes than this?  Yep….a whole lot more.

Travel hint no. 15 – Don’t bring any glazes – there’s simply no need.

One of many glaze shops in Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2017)

We cross the road to head for Paint Town, a shop that sells cobalt.  I’m going to need this for my china blue and white painting class.  Expecting to walk in and buy a small tub of dry cobalt oxide, I’m shown to at least 56 different flavours of cobalt; wet, and in a multiple shade of each.  This is insane.  I’ve never seen anything like it.  There’s blue, darker and lighter blue, really mega-dark blue, and so dark it’s almost a black kind of blue.  Oh wait… it is black.  Oh… and there’s a green, and another gorgeous, royal blue.  I settle for a rich, darker blue that looks like it will do for a beginner.

I ask one of the staff why the cobalt is wet and next thing the owner appears, invites me to sit down and gives me a lecture on wet cobalt and can’t understand why I would want it dry when it comes already prepared for painting.  When I try to explain I want it for adding to my own glaze recipes it doesn’t seem to register.  I’m interrupted over and over again and told, not asked, to remain sitting down.  Inside I’m bursting with laughter, but I’m being polite and allowing this guy to share his view of the world and cobalt.  He explains in fine detail how long it takes to prepare dry cobalt requiring it to be put outside to dry and then for the labour to grind it down and into a fine powder.  It doesn’t seem to matter to him what I want to use it for.  I’m in for the long haul here… a half-hour lecture is happening whether I like it or not.  I’m still grinning on the inside though… this guy is fascinating.  I’m listening intently.  He’s also loud, very loud and I can see in my peripheral vision that the other customers are smiling at my expense.  No doubt they’ve seen it all before.

Paint Town and wet cobalt (© Deanna Roberts 2017)

Finally, I’m directed to another little shop just up the road; a tiny little corner shop that sells dry cobalt and I’m glad to find that it’s about a quarter of the price of what I’d pay at home.  The guy with the loud voice, the uncomfortable yet beautifully carved wooden seat I’m told to sit in and the smorgasbord of cobalt will be forever etched in my mind.  I’m happy though.  I have a few glazes to start playing with.  So will you once you get to the Sculpture Factory in Jingdezhen.

Travel hint no. 16 – Never make assumptions.

Suddenly a rickety-looking cab (it has definitely seen better days…) appears outside the front of the hotel and a strange man and lady have come to collect me to take me to the Pottery Workshop.  After some introductions we head off and it’s goodbye to Diana for a few days.  I’m driven only a short distance (certainly less than a couple of kilometres) and have completely no bearings at all and we pull up on a small road that runs between two main roads.  It’s like a different world here… it’s own little community.

The Pottery Workshop artist residency (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

I’m led to a long building with a cafe and gallery downstairs and notice other little shops, a bar and pathways leading to mysterious places.  I’m shown upstairs to my room, the bathroom and kitchen areas and the studio space where I first meet Leanne, Maggie, Camille and Emily sitting at a table with Huang Fei who is guiding them through the art of cobalt painting on ceramics.  Looks interesting.  Definitely have to find out more about what’s going on there.  It’s nice to see some Aussies again whom I seem to have an instant rapport with.

Huang Fei and his finished demo piece (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

My work table is large enough for me to spread out my creativity and we manage to shift a potter’s wheel into position and on to a few bricks for me to comfortably work on for the next few weeks.  I’m somewhat in awe of this large studio space.  It’ll take a bit of getting used to but I’m revelling in the huge amount of natural light and so relieved to find airconditioners and fans running.  It’s soooooo hot and humid right now.  You only need to move an inch to build up a sweat.

Travel hint no. 13 – Drink plenty of water.

I look around the space and notice that some of the other artists are quite prolific and churning out the work.  Others are happy to sit and sketch, modelling clay a little bit at a time.  Each artist at their own pace.  I’m in a good place.  Like-minds all working together, harmoniously and quietly, subconsciously and productively.

Pottery Workshop studios – Jingdezhen (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

This studio is all part of the Sculpture Factory.  There’s a lot of history behind it and I’m yet to learn more about it.  It’s not a factory as I’d imagined, ie it’ not a large warehouse type of setup or a group of them; it’s more like a village, with small pockets of experts dotted around.  There’s a mystery around every corner an buckets of history to go with it.  I’m shown the 3 public kilns, the dining room, the mould-makers, the shops, the cafe, the bar and the office, where the local constabulary has rocked up to register my arrival.  I hand over my passport again and wait while he completes the paperwork and speaks a lot of Chinese to the office staff.  No point in me listening really.  It’s not like I have a clue what they’re talking about.

All I want to do is rest now.  I’m exhausted after the flight, the hotel, the Sculpture Factory tour and the stairs… up and down, up and down, up and down.  I can see this is going to be challenging in more ways than I imagined.  Humidity, stairs, language… mmm.

Collapsing into my bed… OMG, it’s like lying on a brick.  If you like firm beds then this is for you.  If not, be prepared for a lot of spinal adjustments and a few sleepless nights.  At least I have a great view.

View from Pottery Workshop residency (© Deanna Roberts 2016)

Travel hint no. 14 – Bring a self-inflating mattress if you prefer your creature comforts.

I do, however, sleep rather well.  I guess exhaustion contributes to that.  Felt good to shut my eyes; really, really good.